WARNING: This accomodation is rated BBB. It has an extraordinary botanical content. Garden enthusiasts will find it very difficult to leave. All guests will find it relaxing to the point of immobility. Visitor discretion is advised!
If you are looking for an off-the-beaten-track place to stay in central Bali without aircon and the accompanying big-hotel feel, I can’t recommend Bali Mountain Retreat more highly.
It is like a miniature Balinese village but without its own temple. The villas are simple but lovely. The gardens are wonderful. The food is excellent (there are even cooking classes). Best of all, the small number of staff make you feel as though you are staying with friends rather than as guests. My friend even got to help with the cooking and cooked dinner for the staff!
35 years ago I backpacked my way through Indonesia. This beautiful place provides those of us who want a similar experience without all the mosquitos, ants, mandis, endless vegetable-free nasi goreng, dodgy chicken and other discomforts. We climbed Gunung Batukaru (2,275m), we’re invited to attend the annual full moon ceremony in a nearby village (the only outsiders present), saw the village children give a dance performance for their parents to gamelan music played by their fathers, had the best massage ever (which I sorely needed after G. Batukaru!), and totally chilled out.
I often say I’ll go back to places I’ve enjoyed staying at, but rarely do. Somehow I feel I will return in this case as, surrounded by the luxury, faux authenticity, fixed smiles and impersonality of my current up-market hotel in Ubud, I miss the simplicity, homeliness and genuine friendliness of the Bali Mountain Retreat already.
Thank you Putu and friends. I will see you again.
Paul